Go west young man seems to be a constant theme in today’s climbing world. But standing on a soap box I declare that to not be totally true. Oklahoma seems to be know for holding several of the best kept secrets and one of which is Oklahoma climbing. There is rock for everyone in this great state. Whether your pleasure is granite, sandstone, or limestone climb on.
The crowned jewel of Oklahoma climbing is the Wichita Wildlife Refuge. Located outside of Lawton off highway 49 with granite formations reaching as far as the eye can see upward, and boulder fields that look like a jungle gym there are lines for any climbing palette. With several different areas to choose from you wont be let down. One of those is Mt. Scott offering several choices wo of which are Upper and Lower Scott. Mt. Scott is open form 9:00 am to dusk daily except when weather prevails. Upper is ideal for the novice climber with more than 30 routes rated at 5.6c this is an ideal place to start acquiring your climbing legs. Lower Scott has near a dozen routes ranging from 5.6-5.11c. Note that there is not a lot of available parking in this area so carpooling is recommended. If both of these sound to be to timid, challenge yourself to a three roof climb called ‘Repeat After Me’ rated at 5.10c. This is sure to boggle your mind and have your hands blistered wanting more.
If that doesn’t strike your climbing fancy head to Quartz Mountain located 45 minutes west of the Wichitas and worth every bit of the drive. If your looking for intense trad and sport climbing, put this on your list of places to climb. Offering short approaches with easy navigation this is a perfect day trip. Quartz Mountain has the longest routes in Oklahoma with slab faces reaching as far as the eye can see. Locals will tell you that these routes can be run-out with most rated R or X. This is not the place for the passive climber.
If you’re still shaking your head with disbelief that Oklahoma has climbing worth noting, head the boulder fields in Chandler Park outside of Tulsa. Rock worth climbing weaves through this hillside with routes 15-25 feet high ranging from V0-V12 there is no doubt you will feel worked after climbing here. Most routes are fast with none longer than 40 feet with third or fourth class scrambles. You are sure to have a day full climbing tales to tell.
These are just a few of our great state’s choices and all are worth checking out. Now mark your map, grab your gear and climb on!
Routes or areas of climbing have been set and broken down into classes. These classes serve as a rating to give the climber a better understand of what they are about to attempt.
Classes range from 1-5. Most terrain or activities in 1-4 can be done with a feeling of ease and most of the time rope is only used for comfort.
Most of the climbing mentioned is rated in the class 5 range. For instance a 5.5-5.6 route is one that has two hand and foot holds for every move. 5.7 there will be a foot or hand hold missing.
As the numbers increase the holds decrease. Meaning the rating rises when the difficult increase with fewer holds to place.
When using the V scale a climber is referring to bouldering routes. When bouldering a person is not roped in. The V scale ranges from V0-V16. With V0 being pretty simple to V16 where death is a high risk if one should fall.
There are also danger ratings. With PG meaning run-outs might be present, but falls will not be dangerous. R meaning run-outs are present and there is protection, but falls may result in injury, and with X there is no protection, and falls will result bodily harm and death can occur.
Now don’t rely to heavily on ratings. Because you might run a route at your home gym smooth at a 5.6, but that same rating might be more difficult on actual rock. So take each route with ease and respect. Make the rating and rocks your friend.
Girl vs. Wild,
Jacquelyn Farris
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CLICK ON THE PHOTO FOR MORE PHOTOS FROM MY ADVENTURES
