lead climbing


Believe it or not, Oklahoma has rock climbing. Not just any rock climbing, but rocks that are known for developing climbers that are making names for themselves.

One thing climbers love is a little friendly competition, and Rocktown Climbing Gym in downtown Oklahoma City will host the Flashpoint Climbing Competition on Saturday.

Registration is $40 and can be done until Saturday online or onsite starting at 8 a.m.

This competition is one of several USA Climbing sanctioned events held in the Heartland Region. Climbers are coming from across Oklahoma and surrounding states to compete and climb routes ranging in difficulty and in height all the way up to 90 feet tall.

Those competing have the chance to advance to Divisionals, then on to Nationals, with the hope of advancing to the USA Climbing National Team.

The action starts at 9 a.m. with all youth, adult recreational and adult intermediate categories. Session 1 is all top-roped routes with varied difficulty and is set up in the USA Climbing Redpoint format. All routes will be made prior to competition and given a set point value based on the technical difficulty of the climb. Points are accumulated by climbing routes clean — meaning no hangs or falls, and a climber’s top 5 routes completed will be added up to make a final score.

The afternoon session gets under way at 2:30 p.m. with the Advanced category, and will be a modified onsite format competition. Climbers will be allowed to view the routes, but will then be held in isolation and will be called out one at a time to complete a series of four routes. There will be a set amount of time given to complete each route and a rest period between each. Climbers may attempt the route multiple times within the given time period, but the rope will be pulled and must be re-led each attempt. The high point of each route done will be scored and then added for a climber’s total points.

USA Climbing will award medals to the top six climbers in each category, and best of all, a competitors prize raffle will be held at the end of each competition session. I have heard from highly regarded sources that the raffle has some awesome prizes, too.

In addition to the competitors’ prize raffle there will also be a raffle/fund-raiser to benefit the Access Fund.

Anyone, climbers and spectators alike, may purchase raffle tickets for the Access Fund raffle. All proceeds go to the Access Fund.

For more information call Rocktown Climbing Gym at (405) 319-1400 or check it out on the world wide Web at www.rocktowngym.com

Now I know where I will be climbing Saturday. Grab, your harness, shoes, and chalk and head to Rocktown Climbing Gym for a day

Girl vs. Wild,

Jacquelyn Farris

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is where my latest adventure took me, and it was an adventure, indeed. With floods, skunks, teepees, and of course, climbing, it was one for the record books. Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, located in Jasper, Ark., is worth every bit of the 5-hour pilgrimage to get there. The drive through the winding back country takes you to the hidden treasure that is Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Family owned by the Johnsons, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch has been up and operating as a guest ranch for the past ten years, with climbing introduced just 7 years ago by a then-passing-through Jason Roy. Roy came to the ranch to put up a few routes with friends, but just never left. At the time there were only 60 set routes, and it was unknown to the Johnsons that they were sitting on the newest hot spot of climbing. With over 300 sport routes and a couple of hundred bouldering problems, this is has become the mecca to midwestern climbing. The ranch also offers accommodations ranging from log cabin stays with full service meals, to teepee living and, of course, primitive campsites. If you're not savvy to climbing and looking to get started, hired guided services are available. Horseshoe notes that this is an ideal place to start leading climbing. There has been a boom at the ranch since entering the limelight in Dosage 3 and various magazines. With the constant stream of pros like Chris Sharma, Jason Kahl, Fred Nicole, Dave Graham and Katie Brown hitting Horseshoe, climbing has blown up and guests are coming from far and wide seeking the chance to climb the coveted sandstone that stretches as far as the eye can see. Jason Roy, Adventure Activities Director and Head Climbing Guide, says, "the draw to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is the close proximity to camping and safely bolted moderates. It's like luxury climbing, this rock is the best seen. Some of the best friction and the climbs are so diverse from slab, to cracks, steep overhangs, and massive erretts." Lastly, my climbing friends and I climbed, saw, and at least tried to conquer what we coined the southern comfort to climbing, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. Jason Roy put it best: "the cat's definitely out of the bag to climbing in Arkansas". For more on Horseshoe Canyon Ranch visit www.gohcr.com. Girl vs. Wild, Jacquelyn Farris
In exactly one day and counting I will hit the road and embark on what will be a serious climbing adventure. I am headed out to climb with big boys at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Jasper Arkansas. Horseshoe Canyon Ranch is located in Jasper Arkansas with 350 acres on the ranch and 160 adjacent and all climbable so I am sure to find a few routes top. It is called "the new climbing hot spot of the midwest" with 300 plus routes set on the ranch and a majority of them sport, and a couple hundred bouldering problems there should be enough to boggle my climbing mind for a few days. The routes range in class from 5.0-5.14a, and the hardest route is "Prophet" which climbing genious Chris Sharma set the first ascent. This is an ideal place to start climbing, and especially to start lead climbing. My good friend Michael Morley just called and told me "I will lead my first route at Horseshoe", this means its on! Dear climbing gods, please part the skies and shine your favor on me and the gang. We are ready to climb on. Girl vs. Wild, Jacquelyn Farris