The Oklahoman’s Food Editor Dave Cathey

Wake for Sean Cummings Irish Pub Includes Free Beer

He and wife Cathy, owner of Vito’s Ristorante, had been planning to open a new concept within half of Vito’s space, but finally decided to simply move the pub. Now you’ll have a family Italian restaurant on one side, and an Irish Pub on the other.

To celebrate, the wake begins Sunday at 1 p.m. in the old Pub space. Free beer will be served from 1 to 2 p.m.
Bagpipers will then lead a funeral procession from 9610 N. May down to 7521 N. May where the free beer will continue to flow. Irish music is planned and Sean guarantees, “An absolute riot.”
Cummings serves authentic Irish pub fare like bangers, features Irish music most nights of the week and Guinness on tap every night of the week.

Sean and Cathy had planned to open a street food concept in the portion of Vito’s where the Pub will now take residence.

Sean asks that if you come to Sunday’s services, that you dress in appropriate funeral attire.

“That means all black,” he said.

See you there.

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Oklahoma City is Pho Real.

When an area in the city you live in contains an area that is more densely populated with Vietnamese residents than any other spot in the country, it stands to reason that you might find some decent pho.
Not to mention spring rolls and banh mi.
Thanks to the Asian District, all those Vietnamese standards are available daily from a myriad of sources.
Other places have Whole Foods and liquor laws that aren’t the laughingstock of the nation, we have legit pho.
Pho Lien Hoa is the standard-bearer of pho in these parts. That said, you’ll find some of the best pho in the country in the 73106 zip code.
What’s interesting, is the uprising of pho in the ‘burbs. A doubtlessly venerable undertaking, I have a difficult time giving pho the vote away from the Asian District.
I have no problem pinching a taco from Chalo’s Tacos, which is closer to Mercy Hospital than Integris Health Southwest Medical Center. But then I’m a taco junky. Bad example.
More along those lines, I’m hesitant to eat seafood when I can’t sniff salt in the air. I only choose Dr Pepper when I’m passing through Dublin, Texas…Heck, I even went to a Sooner football game, thanks to a very kind stranger at Johnnie’s Charcoal Broiler on NW Expressway, and rooted for the Crimson and Cream — though they were playing Texas A&M which at the time was undefeated and ranked in the top 5 at the time. (Yes, it was very, very, very long time.)
ago.)
My motives for pho snobbery are murky. Perhaps I’ll develop a more liberal view of non-Asian District pho since there’s a Democrat in the White House. Maybe Colt McCoy’s pinched nerve was a nightmare I haven’t woken from yet. Maybe “Lost” will finally answer all my questions.
While I’m dreaming the impossible dream, I reckon I’ll be getting my pho in the 73106. See you there.

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You and Julia

Though we lost Julia Child in 2004, she enjoyed quite a comeback in 2009.
Thanks to Julie Powell’s blog, which became a book, “Julie and Julia” became a successful film, starring Meryl Streep. Then I shared the story of Oklahoma City’s own John Bennett, who enjoyed a lifelong friendship with the iconic chef that picked up at the moment in history where her part in “Julie and Julia” ended.
While Streep’s unbridled interpretation of Julia in all her eccentric wonder stole the show, the recipe that likely remained kicking around in the head’s of viewers is Boeuf Bourguignon. 

The arctic temperatures that have the Heartland in the stranglehold, make this the the time to embrace your inner Julia. This is comfort food from France, guaranteed to warm the soul. Even my vegetarian wife enjoys the buttery onions and mushrooms in the resulting velvet-smooth brown gravy. Chili is clearly a great call for this kind of weather, but boeuf bourguignon stands shoulder to shoulder with it for cold daze like those upon and before us.

Thanks to Random House for releasing the original recipe for BB plus sauteed mushrooms and brown-braised onions from “Mastering the Art of French Cooking.’ Simply click on the images and zoom to about 50%, depending on the size of your screen, to read the recipe in Julia’s original text. Bon Appetit!

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

And here is Julia’s guide to choosing the right beef for this dish, courtesy of Random House: 

The better the meat, the better the stew. While cheaper and coarser cuts may be used, the following are most recommended. Count on 1 pound of boneless meat, trimmed of fat, for 2 people; 3 if the rest of the menu is large.

First choice: Rump Pot Roast—Pointe de Culotte, or Aiguillette de Rumstek
Other choices: Chuck Pot Roast—Paleron, or Macreuse à Pot-au-feu
Sirloin Tip—Tranche Grasse
Top Round—Tende de Tranche
Bottom Round—Gîte à la Noix

 

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Groovy Grub, Man

Master chef John Bennett’s The Cellar at Hightower will live again, at least for one more night.
Chef Joe Jungmann is not only welcoming Bennett into his kitchen at Paseo Grill, he’s also putting some of Bennett’s prized possessions from the historic restaurant on display.

Here’s a closeup of menus from the mid-1960s. Note these Beatlemania-era prices for fine dining. That said, don’t expect prices for the dinner to match what you see here…

 

 

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All Hail the Nabuchodonosor!

No it’s not a paleolithic sparkling wine, it’s simply French for Nebuchadnezzar. So what does the king who drove the loathsome Elamites from Babylon and made war with the hated Assyrians have to do with the bubbly? Nada. Wait, wait. That’s Nebuchadnezzar I. Perhaps it has something to do with the Deuce, who eventually delivered Babylon from the same hated Assyrians, sacked Ninevah and held in bondage history’s first big trio: Shadrach, Meshach and Abednego. The man whose dreams Daniel interpreted as the rise and fall of his own Chaldean empire. The man who fought through a seven-year sentence of lycanthropy and madness for his sins only to make it back to his throne where he ruled, quite literally, as a righteous dude.

Nope, not him either.

It’s a ginormous bottle of champagne, containing roughly 20 standard bottles of champagne.  Stan is excited not because he’s holding it, but because he’s sold it. Veuve sells for right around $50, so multiply that by 20, shave a little off for the savings on glass…you get the picture. It’s not something he just keeps in stock.

No, this bottle is reserved for a local wine collector of moderate renown. I’m not saying who it is, but his name rhymes with Nebuchadaubrey.

But this is not the largest bottle of champagne one can purchase.  The Melchior contains 24 bottles. The Solomon pours a little under 27. A Sovereign plays out a very record-player friendly 33 and a third bottles. The Primat is good for 36 bottles. But the granddaddy of all champagne containers is the Melchizedek, who I think used to be the D-coordinator at Texas before taking over as head coach at Auburn. The Melchizedek is a Nebuchadnezzar+a Nabuchodonosor, giving new meaning to the phrase “Chillin with a 40.”

How do you pour one of these bubbly behemoths? Stan told me you punt. Also known as a kick-up, the dimple at the bottom of a giant champagne bottle is large enough to curl your hand into and lift. Heck, if Han Solo would’ve had a Melchizedek of Veuve he could’ve slept in the punt, saving that poor tauntaun and ruining the whole tauntaun sleeping bag industry.

The photo above of Stan with the Nabuchodonosor and all his bottles of bubbly were by Jim Beckel, better known as The Captain. The amazing photo on the cover of today’s print edition was taken by John Clanton with lighting and composition assistance from Nate Billings. The overall cover was designed by Matt “Rube” Clayton. The edible hibiscus flower was from Epicurean’s Pantry in Edmond. The flutes were provided by Spiegelau. The champagnes were from Beau’s Wine Bin and Spirits Shoppe.

With all that clarified, I hoist a virtual glass toward your gently reading eyes, bidding you a Happy New Year in the teens that march toward us.

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Feast of the 7 Fishes

Chef Christine Dowd has worked up another interesting menu for the annual Feast of the 7 Fishes at Trattoria il Centro, 500 W Main.

 

The special menu premiered Tuesday night, reflecting the traditional Christimas fish feast customary in Sicily and Italy.
Dowd is featuring Tuna Carpaccio with hot-house cucumbers, sweet potatoes and a saffron vinaigrette; Swordfish Involtini, featuring a rustic tomato sauce and garlic herb breadcrumbs; Sole Francese with artichokes, capers, chives and a julienne of Gala apples; prosciutto-wrapped halibut on a pickled white bean ragu; polenta-crusted red snapper with a pumpkin caponata in chianti vinaigrette; king salmon with chicory and pancetta and butter braised brussel sprouts; and lobster “alla diavolo.”
While the feast is a one-night affair for Christmas Eve, Trattoria will carry the special menu through Saturday night.
For reservations, call 601-5858.

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Lunch(es) of the Week

Just a quick one before the weekend. Had a nice run of lunches in local eateries this week.

Monday: Sean Cummings Pub
Kurt Fleischfresser, Scott Stuckey and Michel Bouthion were kind enough to introduce me to this little piece of Dublin in the Collonade Shopping Center. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are on the menu with Guinness on Tap. I had the Shepherd’s Pie to answer a question that’s long burned inside me: Do I like Shepherd’s Pie. The apparent answer is no. I trust Sean Cummings enough to think that he would make Shepherd’s Pie exactly the way it’s intended and then turn it up a notch. I didn’t hate it by any stretch. I just don’t think the dish is my cup of tea. Myu guess is any Shepherd’s Pie fan would’ve loved it. I look forward to returning when I can actually explore all that Cummings’ Pub has to offer (BEER, BEER, BEER), and Sean can outfit me with something  to intrigue my Irish-ignorant palate. I was also introduced to a more outlandish milk pairing than the Milk and Pepsi “Laverne and Shirley” introduced us to in the 1970s. Milk and whiskey anyone? Tres bien, merci!

Wednesday: 7 Deli, 711 N Hudson Ave.
After a one-day respite of eating leftover posole on Tuesday, my old pal, emphasis on old, John Bennett joined me at downtown’s newest delicatessan, 7 Deli. What a find. We went on the recommendation of Good Egg executive chef Robert Black and were pleased with the results. I had the Philly Cheesesteak, and must say it’s a contender for best in the city: mushrooms, peppers, and no Whiz. Big winner. It’s in the space formerly occupied by Allen’s Cafe, across from the Federal Building. John ordered a corned beef sandwich in only the way John can. Listening to this master chef order a sandwich is like listening to Beethoven dictate a melody to a music student. Of course, Beethoven was deaf. 7 Deli definitely makes the cut for downtown dining.

Thursday: The Lunch Box
Yes, this was my first time there, and I caught a lot of grief for that. Sheri Guyse was kind enough to walk Matt “Rube” Clayton through our maiden Lunch Box voyage. Wow. School lunch the way it should’ve been. Rube was slightly freaked out by the overwhelming number of choices and the random manner with which they were presented. The Lunch Box’s menu is more like street graffitti. Matt being a designer was visibly shaken by their disrespect for continuity. But not the food. Mom, or even grandma, has nothing on the smoked ham he had or the lemon-garlic chicken I had. Swiss steak, meatloaf, burgers and on and on. Next to the iceberg-sized slice of pecan pie I shared with Sheri (yes, I shared), I really dug the Brussel Sprouts. Had mom made like that, the sight of these little mini-Cabbages would’ve have affected my gag reflex up to the age of 33. Great comfort foods, better prices. But don’t expect precision or elevation of the cuisine.

Friday: Ingrid’s Kitchen
Friends Jesse Olivarez and Nick Tankersley and I happened over for some sauerbraten, meatloaf and corned beef. (I think it was corned beef, but Nick ate it so fast it’s hard to recall.) Anyway, Ingrid’s has come a long way from a bakery that dabbled in deli. That said, the bakery is still the star of this German diner. Check them out before the world meets them via “Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives.” Guy Fieri’s midas touch is sure to send lines out the door.

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Italian Grotto Eggs

If you’re looking for a good cookbook for either your wishlist or for the foodie on your gift list, consider local author Molly Wizenberg‘s “A Homemade Life.

Molly used to be one of the country’s finest young food bloggers. Now, she’s simply one of America’s best food writers.

The voice behind Orangette found her way to Bon Appetit and this year with “A Homemade Life,” which is a perfect showcase for Molly’s talent.

It’s “Like Water For Chocolate” without the magic realism.
Ultimately, the book is the ongoing recipe for Molly’s life. The Casady-graduate shares the high and lows of her homemade life, ending each chapter for recipe.
If music creates the soundtrack of your life, then surely food creates its menu — in some cases smorgasbord.

This recipe comes from the heart-breaking, beautifully written chapter that describes her father, Burg’s, final days thanks to a long battle with cancer.

I’m sure Burg would be thrilled to know that the first time I made this dish for my wife Lori, she immediately thrust it upon her Top 5 Meals list, right there with Sushi Neko’s Red Canyon, pan-seared John Dori from The Coach House, Eggplant Parmigiana  from Vito’s and my own meager contribution: Pecan-Mushroom tacos.
This simple, luscious dish takes a little patience for those used to eggs being done within a few minutes. The low cooking temperature extends the time, but — combined with goat cheese — results in a sumptious result. I tossed them on top of onion-jalapeno fried potatoes (surprise!) and a few ribbons of basil.

Italian Grotto Eggs

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 5 large eggs
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 tablespoon heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 3 tablespoons (1-1/2 ounces) soft goat cheese, like Laura Chenel, coarsely crumbled.
• Fresh ground pepper

Directions

1. Melt the butter in a medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat.
2. Crack the eggs into a small bowl and beat them lightly with a fork.
3. Add the salt and cream and beat to blend.
4. When the pan is hot, pour in the eggs and swirl to coat.
5. Reduce heat to low, and using a heatproof rubber spatula, stir the eggs gently, scraping the bottom of the skillet until the eggs are looselyset in large, pillowy curds. They should be slightly runnier than you want them.
6. Remove the pan from heat and scatter the goat cheese over the eggs.
7. Give them one more gentle stir to melt and distribute the cheese.
8. Serve immediately with additional salt and black pepper to taste and, if you like, slices of buttered toast.

Source: Molly Wizenberg’s “A Homemade Life”

 

 

 

Onion-Jalapeno Fried Potatoes

Ingredients

• 2 potatoes, peeled and diced
• 1 small onion, halved and sliced
• 1-2 jalapenos sliced thin.
• Squeeze of fresh lime juice
• salt, pepper, and garlic powder to taste

Directions

1. Heat a medium heavy-bottomed frying pan and fill to about an inch with vegetable or peanut oil.
2. Heat the oil on medium, to about 325.
3. Fry potatoes for 15 minutes, remove and cool.
4. Turn heat to high and refry potatoes another 7-10 minutes.
5. Add the onions and peppers when potatoes just begin to get crisp.
6. When potatoes are fully crisp and onions and peppers have started to brown, remove from heat into a paper lined colander. Dust with salt, pepper and garlic powder.
7. Just before serving, add a squeeze of lime and toss.

Source: Dave Cathey

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Posole goes to the The Big Apple to visit Bobby Flay

 

While putting together the posole recipe for this week, I was able to try a couple of potential Christmas gifts for foodies.
I used the apple-shaped Dutch Oven by Lodge and served it in the Bobby Flay Chili Service.
The first positive for the Dutch oven is its appearance. It’s the first cast-iron pot that’s met with the wife’s approval. She has proclaimed a pot such as that is worthy of a permanent spot on the stove’s back burner, whether it’s filled with posole, gumbo or chili.
It’s also got an enamel inner coating, which helps prevent sticking and is tremendously useful when it’s time for cleanup. I was also pleasantly surprise at how the “stem” didn’t overheat. I was able to remove the lid with easily, without an oven mitt. I do have concerns that the stem handle might not last long, but that’s just a guess.
Couple of down-sides: It’s not real big. I had to brown the pork in batches. So dishes where browning is called for, like Boeuf Bourgingnon, are not optimal. On the other hand, I did cook eight quarter-pound Italian-style meatballs in a separate endeavor. In that experience, the only problem was overcooking, which falls on the cook. It’s easy to look at that shiny enamel coating and think “nonstick!” But it’s not. The same rules apply to this pot as its cast-iron brethren. It heats more quickly and thoroughly than its lighter-weight cousins. Bottom line, this is a great gift for the foodies with a sense of style.
The other item I used was the Bobby Flay Chili Service. This is a handsome collection of crockery for a dish that often gets short-shrift when it comes to presentation. The main pot and bowls match, but each bowl has a different yet complimenting color. For the chili-lover like me, this is a fantastic gift idea.
The only thing I would change for this service is the main pot. It’s not heatproof, thus can’t be used to cook the chili. That said, I certainly woudln’t turn one down if it ended up in my freakishly large Christmas Stocking.

And now for the obligatory Posole Playlist:

1. Banditos/The Refreshments
2. The Hanging Garden/The Cure
3. David Watts/The Kinks
4. Meantime/The Futureheads
5. From a Buick 6, Bob Dylan
6. Working Girl/The Members
7. Paper Planes/MIA
8. Radio, Radio/Elvis Costello
9. Girls & Boys/Blur
10. Train in Vain/The Clash

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If it’s Tuesday, it must be taco time

Now hear this, all tacos are $1. Sold? Of course, you are. You read the papers, errr, whatever it is people are reading these days to get their daily allowance of newsformation.
Where? The Iguana Mexican Grill, 9 NW 9 St.
The original Iguana Lounge on Western was one of my favorite haunts during the 1990s. The brainchild of Kurt Fleischfresser and Chris Lower, who did all the heavy lifting to lay the foundation for the culinary landscape we now dip our forks into.
The food was good, the drinks were great, the atmosphere was priceless.
Then along came a little concept called Mango that split the personality. An already old building became downright decrepit and suddenly all the assorted lizards painted in and out of the space were living in a haunted house. The old sign still stands as the Haynes brothers feverishly work to refurbish the old spot next door to Hideaway into a concept their not quite ready to divulge.
In the summer of 2008, Steve Mason drew Robert Painter, who managed at the original, and chef Ryan Parrott to breathe life into the Iguana concept in an unlikely space just east of Automobile Alley.
The new spot exceeds the original in atmosphere. The regular menu drew inspiration from the original with a few new flourishes.
But the big enchilada has turned out to be Taco Tuesday.
With Parrott’s unparalleled skill as Grand Pooba of OKC’s social media society, Friday night comes three nights early every week.
And the tacos are the real deal. Parrott offers basic beefs and chickens for the palate-meek, there’s also fish and occasionally he’ll toss some cheek meat or tongue into the mix.
Parrott, like most late-working chefs, long ago found inspiration in the taco vendors on the city’s south side, who peddle their goods to the verge of dawn and do it with simple fillings and killer salsas.
While Big Truck Tacos is fusing gourmet techniques into gringo-friendly portions, Parrott’s intacrotations are an even true homage to the humble street taco: small, cheap and tasty.
Both are delicious and welcome additions to the Oklahoma City food scene. Pass the coralsnake salsa, por favor. Oh, and the roasted vegetables are the best side on the menu. They mix perfectly with literally everything.

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