Fashion Week: Celebrities and fall ’09 trends
Still interested in Fashion Week fall ’09? Here’s a story by Kim Crow, fashion writer for the Cleveland Plain Dealer, detailing the trends and her favorite shows.
Marc Jacobs sent out several looks that emphasized the shoulder through construction.
BY KIM CROW
OK, if you want my Deep Thoughts on Fashion Week, turn back to the front page of this section. But if you’re looking for the trends, the celebrities and some mean-spirited sniping, this is the story for you.
The trends
Strong shoulders: These are not your ’80s power suits. While some designers did indeed find inspiration in those ubiquitous “Dynasty”-era shoulder pads, the more creative among them use pleating, tucking, molding and airy volume to make the point. Why should we embrace this trend? As one Elle editor put it, “Hey, if your shoulders are wider, your hips look smaller.” Um, when can we start ordering these looks?
Touches of neon:
Recession? Check. Big shoulders? Check. Skinny jeans? Check. If we’re loving the ’80s right now, then neon clothing must be all the rage. But never fear; the 2009 version is more understated than in decades past, using chartreuse, hot pink and bright orange to punctuate the endless sea of black and gray clothing on the runways.
Perhaps realizing that their intended customers probably own enough black sweaters, designers sent out a tantalizing selection of accessories, all the better to update what we already have. Chunky, bold necklaces were the jewelry of choice, along with studded and oversize bangles. And interestingly, handbags weren’t as ubiquitous as in seasons past.
One-shoulder dressing:
While this may be a somewhat unfortunate trend for most women, there’s no denying it — especially after the looks on the Oscar’s red carpet last Sunday. Designers are loving one-shouldered goddess gowns. Come April and May, it should be the silhouette of choice for the most fashion-forward of prom girls.
Plaid:
Expect to see many, many “Mad for Plaid!” headlines come fall. Designers gave it edge with tucking and draping that evoked Alexander McQueen more than Eddie Bauer.
Futurism:
The trend that started in Paris has landed in New York. Designers are envisioning a future in which we roam a devastated landscape in tough-girl leathers and artfully patched and ragged knits. And no, I don’t think people will walk around in this look from head-to-toe, but there were some pretty cool pieces to pull out and wear on their own.
My favorite shows
Excuse the self-indulgence here, but this is a question I always get from readers, so I thought I’d share it with one and all. It was an unusual season in that many designers pared their guest lists to save on costs, so I didn’t get to see the shows that usually knock my stilettos off, such as Vera Wang, Isaac Mizrahi and Marchesa. Still, there was plenty, PLENTY, to love.
My favorites, in no particular order.
1. Chado Ralph Rucci — Incredibly conceived, beautifully designed mature clothing at the highest level of craftsmanship.
2. Rodarte – For vision and cohesiveness, no other collection came close to the Mulleavy sisters’ weird, fantastical world.
3. Michael Kors — Great American sportswear, period.
4. Ralph Lauren — Ralph Lauren knows who he is and what he sells — upper-class lifestyle, and the clothes to wear in it. A confident collection of dandified classics.
5. Yeohlee — Spare, stark and austerely beautiful.
6. Calvin Klein Collection — Similar in tone to Yeohlee, but with more experimentation in high-tech fabrics.
7. Lela Rose — A delight in textural opposites; think silk dresses layered smartly under ribbed cashmere coats.
8. Malandrino — A smoky, sometimes surrealist take on 1930s noir, making copious use of netting, veiling and tulle overlays on body-conscious dresses.
9. Thakoon – A fascinating collection, with sculpted pieces in felted wool and printed georgettes, with a handful of well-crafted capes and jackets.
10. Doo.Ri — Moody, beautifully draped jersey dressing gained rock ‘n’ roll glamour with subtle touches of fur and crystal-bedecked stockings.
Celeb sightings In keeping with the subdued nature of the shows this season, celeb sightings were as rare as a fat person in the tents. That said, I did spot Diana Ross (still fabulous), Alicia Keys, Kanye West, Eva Longoria, Blake Lively and Lucy Liu (both way more beautiful in person, if that’s possible), Nicole Richie (maybe pregnant again?), January Jones, Rachel Bilson, Elijah Wood (so small I could put him my pocket), Kirsten Dunst, Milla Jovovich and White House Social Secretary Desiree Rogers (very elegant).
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