It’s raining fashion
The Carolina Herrera Fall 2008 collection is modeled during fashion week in New York, Monday, Feb. 4, 2008. (AP Photos/Bebeto Matthews)
Imagine my surprise when I peeked out the window this morning to see big snowflakes drifting delicately to the street below.
Imagine my pout when I heard it was warm as a fresh croissant back home. But New York is where Fashion Week is … rain or snow. And it usually does one or the other — or both — while I’m here each February.
But enough about the weather.
Carolina Herrera, who packs the house each season, had the countryside on her mind when she was creating her fall 2008 collection. Close your eyes and imagine tweed vests, velvet riding pants tucked into boots and cropped jackets trimmed with fur. And the topper — feathers sticking dangerously out of fedoras. Some had to be at least 3 feet long.
Maybe it wasn’t realistic, but it made for a good show.
Herrera isn’t the only designer infatuated with feathers, which are showing up as adornment for the head, as stoles and even woven into sweaters.
The Betsey Johnson Fall 2008 fashion collection is modeled in New York, Monday, Feb. 4, 2008. (AP Photo/Bebeto Matthews)
Speaking of shows, it’s Betsey Johnson’s 30th year in business, and she wanted to celebrate. Along with her fall collection, she sent out a few of her favorite oldies from previous collections. To be honest, it would be difficult for most people to distinguish between what’s current and what’s old, or should I say vintage.
Good ol’ Betsey does her own thing — and obviously does it very well. Thirty years in the fashion business is quite a milestone. And, yes, she did her customary cartwheel at the end of the show. I wonder if I can still do a cartwheel. I’m thinking not.
Max Azria showed the last of his three shows Monday evening. He designs BCBG Max Azria, Herve Leger by Max Azria and his signature collection Max Azria. It’s a wonder he has time to breathe.
Several celebs graced the front row, including singer Joss Stone. I think she’s the new fashion show darling.
What I paid more attention to was that Women’s Wear Daily, the go-to publication for the fashion industry, had 12 seats reserved. Seems a bit excessive to me. But then, I’m always glad to get just one.
On the runway with Lela and Herve
The fall 2008 collection of Herve Leger by Max Azria is modeled during Fashion Week in New York, Sunday, Feb. 3, 2008
Lela Rose describes her fall collection as “sporty cocktail,” a mix of outerwear shapes reborn in rich fabrics.
Imagine a drawstring navy duffle jacket with cashmere ribbed sleeve and black cable organza pleated skirt. Or a paillette sweatshirt dress. Colors move from peacock to gold to deep teal to cardinal. She favors sleeveless and a cascade of ruffles.
The designer calls the day collection Susie Chapstick meets Park Avenue. Apt description.
She also introduced her Lela Rose for Payless shoes on the runway. From my perch on the fourth row, I couldn’t see ankles, much less shoes. Her runway notes describes the lineup as pumps and wedges with round toes. Flats with round toes. Wood-stacked heels with round toes. I guess round toes will hang around a bit longer.
Remember, these are the clothes and shoes we’ll be wearing in September — or at least thinking about.
by Max Azria’s fall collection isn’t for those who can pinch an inch. Oh no. These clothes hug the body like a second glove. Think Spanx from the neck to the upper thigh.
Each garment features the Herve Leger signature banding construction. Corsets and bandage bustiers made me wish I hadn’t eaten that muffin during the Lela Rose show.
The original Herve Leger fashion house was founded in 1985 and purchased by Azria in 2007. He relaunched the label with his own designs.
The finishing touches for fall 2007: feather headbands and croco pumps.
Trendspotting
It’s much too early for a full-blown trend report, but this is what I’ve seen on the runway more than once:
Mini dresses. Bubble skirts. Teal, kelly green, yellow and purple.
Sleeveless. High-waisted pants and skirts. Belts, hats and lace-up mid-calf boots.
Fashion in the Alps?
The Lacoste Show
“Is this real fur?” one guest asked at the Lacoste show.
He was referring to the blanket of white faux fur covering the runway.
What came later were models dressed in sweaters in white and gray, worn over riding pants in sweatshirt fabric .
“Warm, comfy chic is how I describe the collection,” said Christophe Lemaire, creative director.
Women plowed through the snow — I mean faux fur — in gray shorts and skirts paired with red or gold yellow tights. Guys stepped out in pastel V-neck sweaters.
Lemaire even paid homage to Jamaica’s flag with fitted polos and polo dresses, as well as mountain jackets and scarves in strong stripes and blocks of black, gold, blood red and green.
A complete change of pace came at Rock & Republic, where an orchestra of 19 nestled into a pit in the middle of the runway to play along with recorded rock music as models walked the runway in beautifully cut suits and gowns. It was a sea of black with the occasional purple gown. And no denim. Isn’t Rock & Republic known for its denim?
The suits, for both men and women, and the gowns were cut close to the body. Jacket styles were both long and short. Pants slim as well as full. A fedora is a must. Make it black. The music? Loud. My ears are still ringing.
Fashion Week kicks off
The BCBG Max Azria show
Flight delays kept me from getting here early enough to see most of the shows, but I did make it to BCBG Max Azria.
It looks young and modern, with lots of dresses that seem more suitable for summer than fall. Azria wrapped fabric, ruffled it and served up short bubble hems. Nearly every dress, skirt and coat was belted.
Neutral shades reigned with a bit of plum, mauve and navy in the mix.
Azria is showing three collections on the New York runways.
Along with BCBG, Herve Leger will be presented Sunday morning and his signature Max Azria on Monday, I remember a few years ago he had a a breakfast and informal Q&A for press. About five of us showed up. That wouldn’t be the case today.
Nicole Miller’s show was this evening, too. Wish I could tell you about it, but I couldn’t get a seat or even an invitation to stand. She was in Oklahoma City a few years ago for a New York-style fashion show and fundraiser, and her clothes sell well in the area, but the pr people wouldn’t budge.
So instead of staying in out of the cold, I headed out for a rainy walk to an event for the launch of Molton Brown hair products. Trust me, after I spent 30 minutes in the wind and rain to get here, my hair needed a little help, which it got from a stylist named Mossimo. Too bad I had to eventually leave there and venture out for another rainy walk to the hotel.
More about Molton Brown later, and more shows tomorrow. First up is Lacoste.
