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Remembering Oklahoma City’s first canal

A short trip downtown on a hot Sunday afternoon confirmed that the preservation of the memory of a bit of Oklahoma City history was still in place.

A story from The Oklahoman on Feb. 9, 1938, tells the story about Oklahoma City’s first canal. It tells of a grand idea and a grand failure.

The story was being retold, because a historical marker, a small bronze tablet, was being placed to mark the location of the old canal by the ’89er organization. The canal itself was well on its way to disappearing altogether.

The tablet read: “This tablet marks the location of the canal built in 1889 by the Oklahoma Ditch and Power Co. Charles Price, Pres. and C.P. Walker, Secy. The canal head was four miles west. The power plant was located at Broadway and Canal streets. It furnished power to operate an electric light plant for a brief period.”

I doubted, given the address, that 72 years later it would still be there.  Oklahoma City, south of the present Crosstown Expressway, is changing due to the rerouting of Interstate 35.

The address was 819 SW 3 St., formerly known as Noble Street. It was here the Oklahoma Operating Company in 1930 built their new office/plant building.  The company was the owner of several laundries in town.  The story said that the tablet was located on the wall to the right of the door to the office.

 The building is now deserted and for sale, but  the tablet  was right where the story said it would be.

As I stood and looked around, I doubted that those stalwart pioneers would recognize the area. Buildings have been built, and the North Canadian River itself is nowhere to be seen as it  was moved south, straightened for flood control and now renamed The Oklahoma River.  But because of those ’89ers,  a small group of Land Run participants, who wanted those who followed to remember the past, a memorial exists today for those who will seek it out.

Stories abound in The Oklahoman about how the investors were so sure the canal would work that one of them, Charles “Gristmill” Jones built a gristmill to ground flour, and other investors built a power plant to produce electricity.

On Christmas Eve 1890, when water was sent down the canal and it worked for a short time, Oklahoma Citians were so excited. But blame for the failure that followed was put on gophers that damaged the banks and quicksand that clogged the turbines. In less than two years, the canal was abandoned and began its disappearing act.

So, if you are ever downtown visiting Oklahoma City’s successful canal, give a thought to the one that didn’t work.

– Mary Phillips

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Capt. Daniel F. Stiles and the Beacon of Hope

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Newspaper man pens “Sooner Stanzas”

I’m sure there are still readers who remember “Sooner Stanzas,” the rhymes written by the late  Oklahoman and Times editor Emery Winn.

He began his career with The Oklahoman in 1947 and soon after began the “Sooner Stanzas.” For 25 years, he worked as an editor, being described, at his retirement as copy desk editor for the Oklahoma City Times in 1971, as “poet laureate of the hill and one of the finest desk men in the annals of American journalism.”

The Oklahoma Publishing Company’s company magazine, “Cuff Stuff, ” for February 1971 said:

“Emery Winn would probably be the last person to entitle himself a “poet.” If asked he would say rather a journalistic jingler, versifier, or rhymer.  But the fact remains that Winn has a knack for appealing to all of us with his rhymes. He is uncanny in his choice of subject– it is always just exactly what readers were thinking about. For over 14 years, and in some 4,000 stanzas, Winn delighted readers with his “rhyme in writing,” and many wrote to say ”That’s just what I say.”

Here is one of his rhymes from The Oklahoman for May 23, 1949, as it appeared in the newspaper. It seems appropriate for today.

Now April is the proper time .  .  . When showers are to fall .  .  . While May’s supposed to be sublime .  .  . With flowers, sun and all .  .  .  But something seems to be awry .  .  .  And May has gone to pot  .  .  . We’re threatened with a stormy sky .  .  .  More often than we’re not  . .  .  We do not have a gentle rain . . . When rain comes our due .  .  .  But what we have clogs ev’ry drain .  .   .  And floods the country too .  .  .  And then if rain is not enough .  .  .  To saddle us with woes  .  .  .  We have high winds and other stuff  .  .  .  And these tornadic blows  .  .  .  Keep each of us in mortal fear  .  .  .  That we’ll be blown away .  .  .  Or that our homes will disappear .  .  .  And all our livestock stray .  .  .  So let us pin our hopes on June .  .  .  Perhaps it will behave  .  .  .  If not I know that very soon  .  . .  My home will be a cave.

                                                                                                                                        EMERY WINN 

– Mary Phillips

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Mother’s Day — A day to recognize

This proclamation was published in The Oklahoman May 1, 1910:

“MOTHER’S DAY IS MAY 8; MAYOR’S PROCLAMATION”

“Mayor Harry M. Scales Saturday issued a proclamation settling Sunday May 8, as “Mother’s Day.” The proclamation was as follows:

“Throughout the country, it is fast becoming the custom to set apart a day to be known and observed as Mother’s Day. The idea is a most commendable one, and the day should be commemorated by wearing a white flower or her favorite bloom.

“Therefore, in accordance with the beautiful idea set forth, I, Henry M. Scales, mayor of Oklahoma City, Okla., do hereby declare Sunday, May 8, Mother’s Day to be properly observed by the citizens of Oklahoma City.

“HENRY M. SCALES

mayor”

On May 7, this article appeared:

“Oklahoma City is preparing Sunday to honor one dear to the hearts of all people. To honor the best mother who ever lived — your mother. In accordance with an already old custom in the east, a day is set aside each year, proclaimed as a legal holiday by the mayor and state officials as “Mother’s Day.” In this city the second Sunday in May has been set aside as a legal holiday.

The objects of Mother’s Day is to recall the memories of the mothers that are gone and through loving words and care to brighten the lives of the mothers that remain and to help the children and men and women to a greater blessing in honoring their father and mother.

To call back mother’s words and prayers and the promises made her by the boy who is now a man and to think a little of what she was to her family. Those who are still blessed with a mother may show their appreciation by some deed of gratitude and love.

Emblematic of the day, each person will be asked to wear a white flower symbolic of purity and love, the two characteristics of mother…

“Mother’s day” had its origin in the person of Miss Anna Jarvis of Philadelphia, about five years ago, and so rapidly has the idea spread that in New England states, New York, Pennsylvania and New Jersey it is observed each year.”

The second Sunday in May became the national holiday for Mother’s Day with the proclamation in 1914 by President Woodrow Wilson.

What was a great idea in Oklahoma City 100 years ago, is still a great idea.

Happy Mother’s Day!

– Mary Phillips

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Jesse James’ brother Frank lived here

In the Dec 13, 2009, story by Oklahoman reporter Ken Raymond, titled “HUNTERS TRAIL JESSE JAMES’ GOLD“, he tells of  the treasure hunters and searches for the loot supposedly hidden by the James gang.

He also mentions that Jesse’s brother Frank settled down near Fletcher, OK, to have easy access in his search for their ill-gotten gains.

 A search of The Oklahoman’s archives finds a story from The Oklahoman, July 25, 1909, that reported:

“Frank James, formerly member of the famous James brothers, who committed numerous depredations in Missouri and terrorized citizens throughout the middle west, is certainly a man of his word. Soon after Jesse James was killed and Frank James surrendered to the governor of Missouri, the chief executive promised him his pardon, providing he, Frank, would live a “quiet and peaceful life.” Frank promised to follow out the governor’s instructions, which he has done.”

James and his wife moved to a farm near Fletcher in southwestern Oklahoma in 1906. There, they raised corn and chickens on 100 acres of land.

The 1909 article continues:

“Mr. and Mrs. James attend church and social gatherings in Fletcher, and Mr. James is ranked as one of the foremost men in that part of Oklahoma.

A great many people stop at Fletcher to visit the once noted outlaw. They are always tendered a cordial welcome and asked to remain as long as they like, providing they do not get too inquisitive in regard to Mr. James past life. Mr. James seldom refers to his reckless Missouri days and he is very sensitive towards publicity. One of the principal reasons why he moved to the farm was to evade so much newspaper notoriety and the ever curious public.”

In 1911, Frank James’ mother, Zerelda Samuel, died on a train near Oklahoma City en route from Fletcher to Kansas City to visit her grandson. Shortly after her death, Frank and his wife moved from Oklahoma, eventually returning to his farm at Excelsior Springs, Mo.

This story from The Oklahoman on Feb. 19, 1915, the day after Frank James died in Missouri, gives a slightly different picture of the man.

Frank James, who died at Excelsior Springs, Mo., lived on a farm one and a half miles north of Fletcher, from the fall of 1906 until his mother died in Oklahoma City three years ago. The farm here is still in James’ name. Following the death of his mother , who was a Mrs. Samuels, he returned to his farm here and remained through the following winter, since which time the farm has been tenanted.

The farm is in what is known as the Little Pasture, and was sold to James for $3,500. While on the farm he did most of his own farm work, and his wife lived her with him. While his mother was en route from Fletcher to Missouri she died on the Frisco train as it was entering Oklahoma City. She was accompanied by Mrs. Frank James.

James, during his residence near here, mingled but little with the public, and so far as known never referred to his outlaw career.

E.W. Dilling, cashier of the Fletcher State bank, and one of the few local citizens with whom James was inclined to talk, say that James was a good bank patron, courteous at all times, and anxious to be of material aid to those less fortunately situated so far as financial conditions were concerned.

Although James lived for several years within one and a half miles of Fletcher he seldom came to town, and seemed to shun the gaze of the curious.

Perhaps this quote from an Aug. 14, 1932, story from The Oklahoman about treasure hunters looking for lost fortunes in Keechi Hills in southwest Oklahoma offers an explanation for James settling in Oklahoma:

“Skeptics may hoot at the idea that the James gang ever had at one time more money than they could haul around with them, but skeptics can’t disprove the fact that Frank James acquired the farm north of Fletcher, Okla., and continued to own it till his death. “Why would Frank James in his old age, buy a farm in the new country of Oklahoma, or anywhere else, except his dear Clay or Jackson county, Mo., unless to look for buried bandit loot?” is the question that treasure hunters in the Keechi hills ask of those inclined to doubt.”

–Mary Phillips

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The first Capitol picnic

Imagine, if you will, the area where the state Capitol now stands as empty prairie and how bright stars would have been without the lights of the city today. This would have been the scene on a crisp, November night in 1910.

Before the graders could grade and the builders could build, the surveyors had to perform their calculations to determine the exact location in the world of the Capitol building.

Two stories from The Oklahoman, Nov. 12 and Nov. 13 of 1910 described the actions of the surveyors as they engaged in ”Fixing the State Capital Meridian.”

The Saturday, Nov. 12, article is prefaced as though for a play:

Scene:  The Capitol site

Time:  Friday evening

Props: “Two delicate surveyor’s transit instruments, the best of the kind in the world, flickering lantern, fitful gleams of a gypsy fire, great bags of apples, surveyors stakes in a pile, small flash lights and above all an appetizing aroma of coffee from the bubbling pot on the fire.”

Cast– members of the capitol commission, corps of engineers and at least one newspaper reporter.

“There you are–what was it all about? An important event in the history of Oklahoma City’s acquisition of the state capitol– the establishment of the capitol site by astronomical calculation based on the whirling of Polaris, the north star, on its heavenly orbit.”

“The calculation was made by Mr. D’Yarmett in the presence of the capitol commissioners to provide an absolute basis for the surveyor’s lines on the capitol site. No human agency can rub out this important imaginary line– and should all other plats and maps and records be destroyed the expert engineer with the exact longitude of the capitol site, obtained last night, could reproduce the maps. The observation of Polaris to determine “True North” is handed down to science by the sailors of Phoenicia–in its perfected form it played its part in the building of a great state house by a great state.

“The observation was begun by a corps of engineers at 8:45 o’clock Friday night when the star

peeped from the mists of the northern sky. It was finished in the wee hours of this morning but the sensitive instruments were left on their tripods until early today when the calculation from their reading will be made and announcement given out by the capitol commission. The jarring of street cars or automobiles in carring the instruments to the city might have produced serious error. Hence the all night vigil– the blazing fire for warmth to the watchers and the glowing coals to cook the appetizing midnight meal for the the engineers and commissioners– the first picnic on the capitol site.”

The Oklahoman Sunday, Nov. 13  announced:

“The capitol of the state of Oklahoma will be located on longitude 97 degrees, 25 minutes.

“… the observation was the clulmination, the finishing touch, to the tremendous work of laying out and platting the state capitol site. The establishment of the meridian, or “the azimuth of the base line of the capitol addition,” forever fixes ” a bench mark” from which the entire site could be replatted, should all other records be effaced…”

– Mary Phillips

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Will H. Clark – a forgotten visionary

If you have ever driven on Grand Boulevard or walked through the gardens at Will Rogers Park; if you have ever picnicked at Lincoln Park, enjoyed the wildness of Trosper Park or played at Woodson Park, you owe a great deal to Will H. Clark.

An article from The Oklahoman published Dec 19, 1937, told it like this:

“A roll of drums, please, for Oklahoma City’s forgotten man.

His name is Will H. Clark. There is is no park, no boulevard, no street, no avenue, no school named in his honor. His name, forgotten by the city when it honored its great, means little. But certainly he is of Oklahoma City’s great.

Pause to think of Will H. Clark for a moment as you drive on Grand boulevard, the highway that encircles the city. Stop to think of him when you swim, picnic, play or attend entertainments at Lincoln, Southwest (now Woodson) or Will Rogers park. Revere his memory when you hear of the city’s revenue from oil under Trosper park.  Recall his name as you gaze at undeveloped Canyon Topping park (now Canyon park and Topping Park north of NW 50th Street) and visualize the playground for tomorrow’s children.

Will H. Clark saw ahead of his time. He saw into yesterday’s tomorrows, which have passed, and he saw even into today’s tomorrows which have not come.

Joseph B. Thoburn, historian and writer, called attention to Clark when he read of nominations for the honor as Oklahoma City’s most useful citizen of 1937.

They didn’t give such honor in Clark’s day, and very little honor came his way, except that as a member and secretary of the city park board. He served on that board from 1907  to 1915 (1911 according to other stories). It was then he dreamed the dreams which gave Oklahoma City a system of parks which today is recognized as one of the most satisfactory in the nation.

As a member of that board, Clark visualized the boulevard connected with large parks at each corner of the city. On June 1, 1909, voters of the city authorized a $400,000 bond issue for that purpose.

It cost the city $400,000. In August, 1929, the city received its first check for royalties from oil wells on one of the parks created, Southeast or Trosper park. By June 30, 1937, the city had received royalties totaling $1,163,728.85 (worth over $17 million in 2009 dollars) from the 34 wells on that park.

“In his foresighted vision he planned more wisely than the rest of us knew, even though we voted to approve his plan,” Thoburn said. “Aye, and ponder for a moment on the query of what those four parks would have cost if their purchased had been postponed unitil now!”

It would be a big item, certainly. Lincoln park, northeast of the city, has 620 acres. Trosper park on the southeast has 655 acres. There are 160 acres in Southwest park and 160 acres in Will Rogers park, northwest of the city.

“He was of the little prized majority who never succeeded in amassing great material wealth,” Thoburn observed.

Will H. Clark was born in Wisconsin in 1856 and came to Oklahoma City in 1890.  He clerked for his father, Col. John G. Clark, one of the first territorial judges; he served as superintendent of Fairlawn cemetery; engaged in real estate; and was an amateur expert on landscaping before  he and his wife moved to California in 1920, according to a story in The Oklahoman April 8, 1942. 

“A long-neglectful city finally got around Tuesday (April 7, 1942) to honoring the memory of an ’89er known as the father of the city park system.”

The city council had approved a 3.55-acre playground for land east of Crippled Children’s hospital. But another story in 1946, less than 5 years later, has the city selling the park for the new Veterans Hospital.

Will H. Clark did leave a legacy to Oklahoma City.

In the Men of Vision series published in The Oklahoman in 1964, it says about Clark, “Today, 55 years later, the city’s urban highway system (our Interstate system) surprising coincides with the boulevard’s route. Pioneer Clark looked far into the future to envision the Oklahoma City of today.”

- Mary Phillips

 

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“Father of Capitol Hill” named Oklahoma City

I came across a story that referred to  Benoni Harrington as the “father of Capitol Hill.” I was curious because I had never heard of him. So I began looking for any information I could find, and I was able to learn about another of Oklahoma City’s colorful pioneers.

Benoni (Ben) R. Harrington arrived in Oklahoma City on April 22, 1889, by train.  He was, however, not new to Oklahoma Territory.

Relocating in Wichita, Kan., from California, he would take the train several times a month to the “wild country.” He was a correspondent for the Wichita Beacon and would write about the Unassigned Lands. An interview with Ben Harrington from The Oklahoman, Feb 6, 1949, stated, “Harrington’s stories did a lot toward starting the Sooner movement. People who read them, came on the Santa Fe to look and some tried to stay.”

When Hamlin Sawyer, a Kansas editor, wanted to start a newspaper in the Oklahoma Territory, Sawyer  asked Harrington what he should name the newspaper, and Harrington told him to name it the Oklahoma City Times. The Times was first printed in Kansas and sent down by train. 

Quoting from “The First Eight Months in Oklahoma City” by Bunky (Irving Geffs) serialized in the Oklahoma City Times in 1933: “The initial number of the Oklahoma City Times was published to the world Dec. 29, 1888 by Hamlin Whitmore Sawyer, the present editor and publisher.  Mr. B. R. Harrington, who was perfectly familiar with this country, was the local editor. The mechanical work on the first issue was executed at Wichita, Kan. but the copy was furnished by Mr. Harrington from this place. Type and material was at once furnished to Mr. Harrington at this place and the Oklahoma City Times as a weekly paper appeared regularly and was circulated to the world through the postoffice at this city. The novelty of a newspaper in the Oklahoma Territory, from the city that bears its name, was a drawing card and everybody wanted to see the new paper. Chicago, Kansas City, St. Louis, Wichita and many metropolitan papers quoted the Oklahoma City Times.  The result was a marvelous increase in circulation. In 30 days from the first issue the circulation was extended to every state and territory in the union besides quite a list in Canada and Great Britain. It afforded the publisher a handsome income until Feb. 10, 1889, when Lieutenant Malcomb, commanding a company of U.S. troops raided this section of Oklahoma and put the Times to flight.”

Eventually, the newspaper  was purchased by The Oklahoma Publishing Company and was Oklahoma City’s afternoon paper until ceasing publication in 1983.

Because of Ben Harrington’s input in the naming of the newspaper, he was credited with the naming of Oklahoma City. Two stories I found in The Oklahoman and his obituary published April 30, 1959, confirm this.

In 1900, Harrington bought 160 acres south of the North Canadian River, and in 1901 he platted the first addition that was named Capitol Hill.

During his 1949 interview, Harrington said, “Near as I can remember, I answered right off Capitol Hill. They said no, call it Harrington addition. But I said call it Capitol Hill and put it on the map.”

The newspaper article reported: “His idea was to locate the capitol there. There was no state then and Guthrie was the territorial capital.”

In 1904, Capitol Hill was incorporated as a town, and in 1910, it was annexed by Oklahoma City with a population of 2,500. In 1949, it was estimated the population of Capitol Hill was 85,000.

Ben Harrington had a mercantile and contracting business in Oklahoma City on a lot he paid $100 for at 225 w California, but he also dabbled in land developing, natural gas drilling and he was one of the businessmen who encouraged the packing plants to locate in Oklahoma City.

Before his death on April 29, 1959,  at 96 years old, Ben Harrington had lived long enough to see Capitol Hill grow from “the one store on the river and open country it was when Harrington planned it,” according to the 1949 story. In 1959 Capitol Hill had ”a semi-weekly newspaper, a daytime radio station, 75 churches, 18 schools, seven parks and business and industry of untold financial value. A major part of Oklahoma City industry is located in the Capitol Hill district.

The Discovery Well of the Oklahoma City field. - THE OKLAHOMA ARCHIVES

“The district’s real growth dates from the discovery of oil, the final realization of Harrington’s dream on Dec. 4, 1928.”

 The Indian Territory Illuminating Oil and Foster petroleum companies’ well came gushing in 6 and 1/2 miles south of the city and was the discovery well for the Oklahoma City field. On Wednesday, Dec 5, 1928, the citizens of Capitol Hill held a celebration including fireworks and a street dance for the oil discovery.

During the 1949 interview, Harrington said, “Instead of capping it and keeping it quiet, they did like I asked and let her gush.”

The article continued: He figures the gusher attracted attention and started a black gold rush which boomed Capitol Hill and Oklahoma City out of slow growing pains.

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Grand Prix car race not new idea for Oklahoma City

While news reports abound with the proposal of a Bricktown Grand Prix auto race, the idea of racing high speed automobiles on Oklahoma City streets is not a new one.

“When the whir and whizz of automobiles, running in international races on the asphalt road known as the Grand boulevard of Oklahoma City, disturb the stillness of 1911 then the park board may rest–and not ’til then.

In their (the park board members) dream, or rather plan–for it is mapped out now, and grading is underway–they have conceived of a road 200 feet wide, interlaid with trees and flowers, an endless path of unobstructed ease for those who would drive and drive and drive.”

The Oklahoman Dec 12, 1909,  story further described their dream:

“On this primrose path there will be none of the grade crossings, nor the halting unpleasantness of hucksters, pedestrians, sand piles and street cars that befuddle and make stuffy the streets of cities. Overhead and underneath, the vehicles which pass the course of the boulevard will go over viaducts and through tunnels.

On the auto-course road rules alone governing directions will restrict. Not only will there be no limit to speed but driving to the best power of the machine will be encouraged.”

As history and current experience shows, Grand Boulevard never quite reached the high expectations of those early leaders.

 When Oklahoma City finally staged the Southwest Sweepstakes Race in April 29, 1915, the racers, including the famed Barney Oldfield, did not race on Grand Boulevard. The racetrack, 2.404 miles long, was laid out on Linwood Boulevard.  The winner of the 200-mile race was “Wild Bob” Burman, and there were only two slight accidents. Burman received $2,500.

When Grand Prix racing comes to Bricktown, the prize money will be greater, but  the excitement for the crowds will be much the same.

–Mary Phillips

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Winged lions revisited

The winged lions that were originally destined for the state Capitol have been sitting right up the street from The Oklahomanbuilding all these years. Their location is in front of Cunningham Interiors at 2701 W Britton Road.

I want to thank the readers who called and e-mailed to let me know where the lions were and to tell me their memories of the lions.  I especially want to thank Sheldon Tarver and  Lyle Cunningham of Cunningham Interiors for their calls. They both gave me additional information that led to me finding the following:

A story from The Oklahoman, Sept 24, 1968, that did not come up in my original search, answers the question of when the lions were moved and tells of the fuss that followed.

“After sitting docilely on the corner of NW14 and Classen Dr. for over 50 years, two lions decided Monday it was high time to kick up their heels and cause a little confusion.

The seven foot, 2,500 pound marble mammoths, which had twice been promised to the Oklahoma City Zoo, were recently sold to Cunningham Interiors, 2640 NW Britton Rd. by M. S. Kaufman, of 823 NW 47, who owns the property on which the lions stood.

The hassle began when movers hired by the company carted the statues off  Monday morning only minutes before the zoo movers arrived on the scene.

“The statues belong to the zoo,” Mrs. Martha J. Sturm, zoo official, said. “We’ve been delayed in picking them up, but we definitely want them to place at the zoo’s entrance.”

“I offered the lions to the zoo about 10 years ago,” Kaufman said. “They never came and picked them up. I got an opportunity to sell them, so I did.”

Meanwhile, about five years ago, zoo officials were again offered the lions by another man, L. A. Wilcox, 1848 Dorchester Dr., who said he was their rightful owner.

Mrs. Sturm said zoo officials had accepted Wilcox’s offer and had planned since that time to have them removed to the zoo as soon as they could decide on an appropriate spot for them.

“The drawings were submitted and plans drawn up the first of the year,” Mrs. Sturm said. “Mr. Wilcox has worked with us and was eager for the zoo to have them.”

“We contacted the moving people and they were to pick the statues up Monday morning,” she said. “When we arrived the lions were gone.”

Wilcox said that about 5 years ago, his son, Burr Wilcox, who owned a wrecking company, was contracted by Kaufman to demolish the buildings that occupied the property.

“When a man accepts such a job,” Wilcox explained,  “the buildings he tears down automatically belong to him.”

He said his son asked Kaufman if he might salvage the two statues and donate them to a worthy cause, and Kaufman agreed.

However, shortly before the job was finished, Burr Wilcox died. His father then decided that the lions should be donated to the zoo as a memorial to his son.”

With two estates involved and the zoo claiming ownership, the last story I was able to find was from the next day and said, “attorneys for three individuals and the zoo met but were unable to  work out an agreement.”

Since Cunningham Interiors had purchased, paid for and moved the lions, the assumption is that legally they were his, and so they have been for the last 42 years.

I drove past last week, and the lions looked well cared for and quite content.

Visit my blog at http://blog.newsok.com/archivist/ and view more photographs of the lions.

Mary Phillips

(Photographs taken by Steve Maupin of The Oklahoman)

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